Bocas del Toro - A Journey to the Caribbean Paradise in Panama

Bocas del Toro is, after the San Blas Islands, a top destination to experience the Caribbean region in Panama. Bocas del Toro consists of several large islands that can be easily navigated by boat taxis for a small fee. The islands are highly diverse, and the nature is fantastic.

Explore vibrant reefs through a boat tour or rent a bike to discover the various reefs along the coast on your own. Each island still retains ample jungle with numerous animals and hiking trails.

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HOW TO GET TO BOCAS DEL TORO?

Bocas del Toro is located just off the coast in the north of Panama, near the border with Costa Rica. You can reach it in various ways depending on your budget and time. Unfortunately, during our visit, there were nationwide protests in Panama, and we had no option to travel to Bocas del Toro by road. Therefore, we were forced to return to Panama City and take a flight from there.

Bus - Most travelers exploring Panama do so by bus, car, or shuttle bus. While the bus system can be a bit complex, it is by far the cheapest option. Panama's bus system is very affordable, and if you have the time, it's a great choice. Not only do we enjoy the local experience, but people in Panama also love chatting with tourists, making the journey an opportunity for engaging with locals.

To get to Bocas del Toro, there are two possible departure points: either from the Costa Rica border near Puerto Viejo or from the direction of Boquete.

From Costa Rica/Puerto Viejo to Bocas del Toro, take the direct bus to Sixaola, the border crossing with Panama. The cost is approximately $5 for the bus.

At the border, get a stamp at the Costa Rican immigration office, located along the stairs as you cross the bridge to Panama. NOTE: The border closes at 5:00 PM. To exit Costa Rica, you'll pay a fee of $8. On the Panama side, go to the immigration office, located to your left halfway along the street after crossing. After receiving your Panama stamp, walk back down the street, cross under the viaduct, turn left, and this is where you catch the next bus.

The Panamanian bus system is different from Costa Rica, and they often charge tourists more if you pay directly on the bus. The bus always indicates the starting and ending points of the route. Your destination may not be directly listed on the bus, but it's along the route of that line. It helps if you have a rough idea of the direction you're headed, often towards a major location.

Take the bus to the Changuinola bus terminal. This is also the final destination, so it will be indicated on the bus. This ride costs about $2.

From the Changuinola terminal, take the bus to the Almirante bus station. This is also the final destination and will be indicated on the bus. The cost is approximately $2. Almirante is the final stop by bus as you have now arrived in the port.

From the port, you have two options. Either take the public ferry, which runs twice a day for $1.50. The ferry departs at 06:00 and 11:00 from Monday to Saturday, and on Sunday at 07:00 and 12:00. The public ferry takes about 1 hour and 40 minutes. Click here for more information on the public ferry and current schedules and details. Alternatively, you can choose to take a water taxi. The water taxi is smaller and, therefore, faster. This option is more expensive, costing $6/$8/$10 depending on the season (low or high) and your negotiation skills. From the Almirante bus station, it's a 500m walk to the public ferry or 100m to the water taxis. Both the water taxis and the ferry arrive at the main street on Isla Colon.

From Boquete to Bocas del Toro, If you're traveling through Panama, your destination for Bocas del Toro is likely to be Boquete. When in Boquete, you first need to take the bus back to David, costing approximately $3. From the terminal in David, take the bus to the Almirante bus station for about $9. As described above, from here, you have two options to reach Bocas del Toro by boat.

Shuttleservice - Shuttle service is a popular means of transportation for traveling within Panama. As the bus system often requires transfers and takes more time, many choose this option despite its higher costs.

From Boquete, you'll pay $30 to Bocas del Toro, including transportation with the water taxi. The cost for this faster option is twice as high, but it also takes half the time.

From Puerto Viejo, you'll pay $35 to Bocas del Toro, and the person transporting you will assist with the border crossing into Panama. The water taxi to Bocas del Toro is also included. Click here for more information on Caribe shuttle's service; according to reviews, this is considered the best option.

Note that if you're traveling with more luggage than a backpack and a small bag, there is an additional charge of $9. Also, the $8 exit fee to leave Costa Rica is not included.

Tip - If you plan to use a shuttle service from Bocas del Toro to your next destination, arrange it through Caribe shuttle. Many issues have been reported with some tour agents on the island. There are stories of drivers claiming no payment was made at the tour agent on the island when you arrive at the Almirante port, leading to either having to pay twice or not being taken.

Flying - From Panama City, you can take a direct flight landing on the main island of Bocas del Toro (Isla Colon). It takes about 1 hour, and costs range from $100 to $180 depending on when you book. Since we had to book last-minute during a period when flying was the only option, we ended up with a much higher amount than if you book your tickets, for example, a month in advance. Click here to view current times and tickets via the Skyscanner website. Note that checked baggage is not included in the price.

THE HISTORY OF BOCAS DEL TORO

Bocas del Toro, an enchanting archipelago on the northwest coast of Panama, has a rich history dating back long before the arrival of European explorers. The area was originally inhabited by indigenous tribes, including the Ngöbe-Buglé and the Naso-Teribe, who lived off the fertile land and abundant marine resources.

Spanish explorer Cristóbal Colón (Christopher Columbus) reached these waters in 1502 during his fourth voyage to the New World, in search of a passage connecting the Caribbean Sea to the Pacific Ocean. Initially, he named the islands Isla del Drago. However, Cristobal Colón did not settle in this area immediately. The region only gained attention from European settlers, especially the British, in the 17th century.

During the 19th century, Bocas del Toro thrived as a center for the banana industry. The United Fruit Company, an American company, established large plantations here and exerted significant influence on the politics and economy of the region. This period of intensive banana production left its mark on the area and impacted its current cultural and economic dynamics.

The 20th century brought changes as Bocas del Toro evolved into a popular tourist destination, offering a blend of natural beauty, ecotourism, and diverse cultural influences. Today, Bocas del Toro remains an intriguing place where the past merges with the present, attracting visitors with its unique mix of history, culture, and breathtaking landscapes.

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THE DIFFERENT ISLANDS

ISLA COLON

Bocas del Toro is often considered a central point in the region, with Isla Colon as a prominent island. Not only is it the largest island, but it also attracts various types of tourists, ranging from nature enthusiasts to partygoers. Bocas Town serves as the ideal starting point to explore this enchanting archipelago, and it's a bustling hub filled with cozy and tasteful restaurants. You can also choose to book tours from this island, but you can truly book them at any hostel and island. So, don't feel obligated to go with the first tour operator that tries to entice you with attractive offers.

Cycling - A delightful activity is renting a bike to escape the bustle of Bocas Town and explore the unusual and breathtaking beaches the island has to offer. For a reliable mountain bike, Alfredo Bike Rental & Repair is the best choice. For just €10, you can have a mountain bike at your disposal for the whole day, with the quality generally better than other rental providers like Bicicletas Ixa. If you want to make it easy on yourself with an e-bike, you can rent one for €35 from Flying Pirates.

For a delightful day trip, we recommend cycling to Playa Bluff, a beautiful secluded beach on the east side of the island. Along the way, there's a good chance to spot howler monkeys in the trees. Beyond Playa Bluff, you can continue cycling to a natural pool, a blue lagoon, and the sloth forest. Despite signs halfway through the route indicating that you are entering private property and passage is prohibited, it turns out to be a path that everyone walks or cycles. So, don't be discouraged! To reach these places, you will need to cross two shallow rivers by bike/walking. The sloth forest is not marked, but at the location on Google Maps, you can take a few short paths to spot sloths. Further along the path, you'll reach the natural pool and the blue lagoon, where signs will guide you in the right direction.

On the way back, you'll find some cozy bars to wrap up the day with a drink. Please note that the total cycling distance is approximately 30 km.

Another adventurous day trip leads to Starfish Beach and Drago Beach. This route is a bit more challenging and hilly than the one to Bluff Beach, and there are cars and buses on the road. Although the side of Bluff Beach is not suitable for snorkeling, you can bring your snorkel set on this side. Unfortunately, in the past, there were numerous large starfish on Starfish Beach, but today only a few can be spotted. These destinations are also accessible by bus departing from the square in Bocas Town.

Filthy Friday - Another reason people stay on Isla Colon is the Filthy Friday party held every week on Friday. Using a boat, you'll visit three different places on various islands to party. The party lasts from 11:30 AM to 9:00 PM and costs €40. This includes admission and a bag with a T-shirt. Drinks are not included. Click here for more information about this party.

Eating & Drinking on Isla Colon - While other islands mainly consist of resorts or local communities, Bocas Town has evolved into a true expat hub, where influences from kitchens around the world come together. Here are our favorite spots:

• Panis - Without a doubt, this is our favorite spot for fresh bread and coffee. From 8:00 AM to 2:00 PM, they sell the most extraordinary and culinary bread, treats, and sweets. Their coffee is exquisite, and they also offer gluten-free options. Check their menu here. Be on time, as they often sell out by late morning. View the location on Google Maps here.

• Rosa Blanca Pizza y Jardín - For unique and delicious pizzas, this is the place. Their pizzas are creative with a range of flavor combinations, but they also serve some classics. View the location on Google Maps here.

• Mariela Empanadas - This is the place to enjoy delicious Argentine empanadas, and they are also very affordable! View the location on Google Maps here.

Staying on Isla Colon - The ideal accommodation on the island depends on both your purpose and your budget. If you're looking for the lively Bocas Town, it's advisable to consider accommodations near the main street. For those who prefer tranquility and a closer connection with nature, it might be wiser to stay a bit further away, outside the central area.

• Cliff's Hostel - For the most affordable option in Bocas Town, Cliff's Hostel is the best choice. The value for money is good, and the hostel provides all the ingredients and necessities to prepare your own pancake breakfast. The double rooms are compact and equipped with air conditioning. The bathroom is shared with a few other rooms, and a communal kitchen is available for guests who want to cook. For availability and current prices on your desired dates, click here.

• Chango's Apartments - If your budget is more generous and you're looking for more comfort but still want to stay in Bocas Town, Chango's Apartments is the best option. These apartments are very comfortable and come with a private bathroom and kitchen. With some luck, you'll have a balcony at the back with a view over the Caribbean waters. For availability and current prices on your desired dates, click here.

• Mosana Reef Garden B&B - Would you prefer to stay outside the center and in the middle of the jungle of Isla Colon? Then Mosana Reef Garden B&B might be the best spot on the island that you can still find for a reasonable price. The Italian hosts are exceptionally hospitable, and the included breakfast is particularly good. They also offer exceptional Italian dishes in their restaurant. The double rooms are very comfortable, and there is a shared kitchen near the rooms for guests who want to cook. Don't be surprised if a sloth keeps you company, dangling from its tree. As with most hotels more inland on the island, it's a requirement that you book a minimum of 2 nights. For availability and current prices on your desired dates, click here.

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ISLA SOLARTE

The next island we want to highlight is Isla Solarte. This island is the least populated of all the islands and is mainly known for its unique accommodation options at Bambuda Lodge. Additionally, you can enjoy a beautiful jungle hike and admire the starfish while snorkeling along the coast.

Bambuda Lodge - Bambuda Lodge is an exceptional accommodation to explore Isla Solarte. Initially established by two friends who wanted to start a hostel in the jungle, it has evolved into a luxurious lodge. In addition to a pool overlooking the Caribbean Sea, the lodge features a cozy bar serving delightful cocktails and an exquisite restaurant. Dinner is offered in a family-style setting, allowing you to enjoy and connect with fellow travelers at a long communal table. From the reception, they've even created a waterslide into the sea for an adrenaline kick! The quality and comfort of the rooms, whether double rooms or dormitories, are excellent. For availability and current prices on your desired dates, click here.

Hiking - Bambuda Lodge offers a short hike across the island. You walk with a small group towards Hospital Point. Along the way, there is a good chance to spot red poison dart frogs. You also pass by a local house where freshly baked bread is sold. They recommend walking barefoot or in their boots, but we advise, if you have them, wearing hiking shoes due to slippery and overgrown terrains.

In the end, you will reach Hospital Point, where you have the opportunity to snorkel for half an hour. Especially towards the point, the underwater world is rich in various fish species. There is also the possibility to freedive a bit deeper, as it quickly gets deeper beyond the point.

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ISLA BASTIMENTOS

This island consists of different areas where you can stay, ranging from luxury resorts to the characteristic village of Old Bank. From here, you can take a boat to Red Frog Beach or venture on a walk to Wizard Beach. In this section, we focus on Old Bank. We did not visit Red Frog Beach because an entrance fee is required, and we have already seen red poison dart frogs on Isla Solarte. Moreover, we have repeatedly heard that the red poison dart frogs are rarely spotted on Red Frog Beach.

Old Bank - This village still exudes the old charm of Bocas del Toro. The Afro-Caribbean culture originated here during the heyday of banana plantation production and has changed little since then. The houses are colorful, and the food is local. You can stay in hostels built above the water or just spend a day boating. From Old Bank, you can also take a short walk to Wizard Beach. We loved it and definitely recommend it if you want to set aside luxury for a while and savor the local culture.

El Jaguar - This is the hostel where we stayed, and it doesn't get more local than this. The rooms are basic and equipped with a fan. The walls of the rooms are paper-thin, and through the cracks, you can see the water sway. The bathroom is shared. They have a small bar where they serve dirt-cheap cocktails. There is a kitchen where you can cook for yourself, although the supermarkets on this island are quite limited in their selection. If you're lucky, the owner might play some tunes on his keyboard from his own repertoire. And if you're extra lucky, his wife sings the night away on Friday evenings. The view from this hostel is fantastic, and you can relax on their pier. For availability and current prices on your desired dates, click here.

Hiken naar Wizard Beach - From the center of Old Bank, you can take a short walk to Wizard Beach. The distance is only 2 km, although you'll encounter a slight ascent. The beach is fantastic and quite secluded. In the past, you could walk from here to Red Frog Beach, but this path is closed and no longer safe to traverse.

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TOURS

On the Bocas del Toro islands, numerous organizations offer various tours. Prices may vary between operators or hostels, but ultimately, you'll end up in a similar type of boat, exploring the same destinations. It doesn't matter much where you book, as tour guides don't necessarily differ in quality if you opt for a more expensive tour from a lodge. Since we prefer self-discovery and don't often book tours, we decided to book one excursion: the tour to the Zapatilla Islands, known as the most famous and diverse. Other tours, such as the Luminense tour or the one to Starfish Beach, reportedly disappoint according to reviews, offering less value for money.

THE OPERATORS

You can book tours from any hostel or through tour agents located in the main street of Bocas Town. Booking at a hostel ensures a somewhat guaranteed level of quality, and you can be sure things are well organized. However, the price is significantly higher. At Bambuda Lodge, for instance, a tour to the Zapatilla Islands costs €35, while negotiating it down to €25 is possible at a tour agent in the streets of Bocas Town.

We booked with one of the tour operators in the main street, which didn't have the best reputation on Google afterward. Still, we found that it was well-organized. We were even picked up on Isla Bastimentos and had a fantastic guide. This guide took us to a place where sloths were chilling, a destination other groups didn't visit.

During our tour, we sailed simultaneously with the boat from Bambuda Lodge, visiting the same locations. In our eyes, there is little difference, and the price can be significantly more advantageous.

Feel free to book wherever you feel comfortable; as mentioned earlier, you can truly book these tours anywhere.

THE ZAPATILLA TOUR

Tours are still tours, and in a destination like Bocas del Toro, this means being in crowded boats, going to various places with many other operators, and, of course, having lunch at one of their contacts, often at a high price.

The main objective of this tour is a visit to the extraordinary Zapatilla Islands. First, you go to a place where you can spot dolphins, and in our case, we visited a mangrove forest that was full of sloths. Then, you continue to the Zapatilla Islands. This place is very special and beautiful. During the time you have, you can swim and snorkel on the beaches. We chose to be a bit more adventurous and take a walk around the island. Due to erosion and rising sea levels, the path has disappeared in some parts, and you may have to make your way through the jungle.

After this visit, you go to a place where you can snorkel beautifully. This is a location where the coral is full of life, and fortunately, there is still little missing here. Unfortunately, this also reminds you that the waters of Bocas del Toro were once all like this, and it is painful that almost everything has disappeared around Bocas del Toro.

You end the tour with lunch at a restaurant on the water, where you can choose between ordering lunch or enjoying the lunch you brought with you. Prices here range around $16 for a rice dish with seafood or fish, and you can only pay in cash.

At the end of the tour, you will be taken back to the place where you were picked up.

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